The Train Traveller’s Guide to the Pufferazzi
We’d waltzed our way along the winding road through the Pichi Richi Pass in the Flinders Ranges, stopping to take photos of the mountains and bluebush. Soon we crossed the railway line and searched for a park near the station. The iconic outback town of Quorn seemed to double in population whenever the restored steam trains were running. We parked our car between the spotless four wheel drives and caravans and walked to the ticket office. We secured our seats, bought a few postcards, and took a wander around town for the hour before the train was due to depart. The historic Pichi Richi railway is run by volunteers who seem far more interested and organised than most public transport authorities in cities.
A loud clattering and snorting announced the arrival of our beautifully restored steam engine. While the driver backed it up to the assortment of restored carriages, train wonks from all over the country descended on it like flies on a fresh turd. Every vantage point held a gaggle of camera toting train buffs. They were almost exclusively male, but there seemed to be no age requirements, only an expensive camera or two, and a burning desire to look at trains.
We climbed aboard the middle carriage of seven, and took a seat facing the opposite windows and seats. The timber lined interior and green vinyl seats of carriage 74 were all in a condition belying its age of 130 years. A family sat opposite us, a chilled mum with dark hair tied back and hipster glasses. Her sporty husband was all hairy legs and beady necklace, he had a shaved head, maybe for aerodynamics or more likely because it was pretty obvious there wasn’t much left to comb. Little Jules and Helena made up the rest of the tribe. Almost immediately the kids decided they needed to toilet, so Sporty Dad took charge and asked Chilled Mum to guard their seats. She nodded but once they had left the train she grinned and told her fellow passengers she could probably do better, so she was keeping her options open. Helena and Jules arrived back and sat peering out the window.
“Is dad coming or is he just sauntering around as usual?”, Chilled Mum asked.
“He’s coming, like usual”, Helena replied, and did the finest impersonation of sauntering I’ve ever seen.
Helena left again, presumably to find Sporty Dad. Chilled Mum sat beside her son, smiling a genuine smile her with perfect teeth, and as an afterthought asked “Can you see Jules … Oh, wait, you’re Jules aren’t you, can you see the other one?”
Sporty Dad and Helena arrived just in time before a party of twelve started complaining because there were no longer twelve seats in the same carriage available for them. They had arrived at least two minutes before we were due to leave and it was clearly a violation of their human rights to have to work around a timetable and the hundred or so other passengers who had arrived earlier. After much grumbling, they separated into two groups and shared themselves between a couple of carriages. The other occupants of our half carriage were an impeccably dressed, smiley mum, a dad in a ridiculous grey/brown bucket hat, and their two year old son. The boy had one arm in his green shirt sleeve, the other wasn’t readily visible. Our carriage captain seemed concerned and asked if the little guy had lost and arm, Bucket Hat Dad told her it was worse than that, it was broken. Our carriage captain told us we were about to leave and gave a quick safety briefing (hanging out of windows was OK, but since there were little kids on board we should probably leave the door shut).
The train whistled and jerked and we were moving. There were more people outside of the train taking photos than there were on it. Chilled Mum seemed particularly amused at all of the attention, I wanted to suggest she start giving them a royal wave, but I don’t think she could be bothered. As we clattered our way out of the rail yard, men with big cameras ran ahead to take just one more dozen photos. Others ran to their spotless four wheel drives. We were about to discover they were a whole other class of train wonk; we were about to be pursued by The Pufferazzi.
Our carriage captain was a woman in her 50s; she spoke with a slight outback drawl and looked like she could have been a surfie in her younger years. Nothing seemed to bother her. Her face was slightly lined and as brown as the soil around us. Her shoulder length black hair was allowed to age gracefully with lines of grey amid the black. There was nothing fake about her, she was the outback on two legs, she was cool, and she didn’t seem to know or care. She told us a little of the history of the railway and pointed out a few landmarks.
Every few minutes we would see more of the Pufferazzi entourage out one window or the other, usually in packs of about four, but sometimes up to ten. They would wave and capture photos and video of every chug, clunk or snort. Chilled Mum seemed particularly fascinated by one group she named The Hipster Trainspotters. They seemed to be the most ardent in their hunt and appeared at almost every vantage point. Chilled Mum seemed genuinely disappointed when the Hipsters missed one crossing but guessed they had probably gone for a latte. Sporty Dad saw a sign with the word Summit on it and proceeded to expertly explain to his kids that we were at the top of the hill. We kept climbing for another three or four hundred feet before Cool Carriage Captain announced that we were indeed now at the summit and were 1332 feet above sea level (the earlier sign was to signify the beginning of the climb to the summit).
Every once in a while we would lean out of the window to take a photo, other than that we watched our fellow passengers, or turned around to look at kangaroos bounding up the hills like Pufferazzi. It soon became obvious that the real fun on this excellent day out was watching the watchers. We had become train spotter, spotters. Cool Carriage Captain seemed amused by the game and told us they see them in the most unlikely places, and almost on cue she pointed one out on a mountainside and asked no one in particular “How the Hell did he get up there?”